I'm trying to help, just in general if you take responsibility for things you will be more likely to correct your behavior and not continue to make similar mistakes again in the future. It's no big deal, don't get upset and just learn from it and don't make the same mistake again. Everyone makes mistakes like this when they start out. If someone needs something with higher quality then im sure they have options for them, but they have to ask for it. Next time let the lab know what you need and expect from them, problem solved.Īs to your second giant paragraph, that's more than big enough for what most people do with pictures, aka post to Instagram, Facebook, Flickr, 500px, WordPress blog, whatever. Don't trust random people on the internet. They even told me that the "low res scans" were supposed to be 6 MB jpegs, while the ones I got were all 2 MB.Īs to your first paragraph, you learned a lesson.
![lightroom 5.7.1 olymps tg-4 lightroom 5.7.1 olymps tg-4](https://unlockingolympus.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/velvia2.jpg)
That's absolutely insane and you are too if you think there's nothing wrong with this lab. Neither of those are TIFF, and they couldn't actually give me an answer on resolution, only that the files would be 25 and 50 MB respectively. There's absolutely no info on scan resolutions, what scanners they use or prices on their website, it just says they process film, so I actually called them and they said a "mid res scan" was $22 and a "high res scan" would be $27. Never in my life would I have guessed that 1818 x 1228 was an option in 2018. It actually occurred to me to ask about scan resolutions, but only because I was expecting them to try to sell me on 6400 dpi and I knew I didn't need that much. Under what circumstances would this resolution be usable for anything? Why would anyone ever choose it? And it's a jpeg that's been compressed to hell. I'm baffled that 1818 x 1228 is even an option in this day and age. >you didn't even know what size images you were getting Oh piss off, I asked about ten different people about pulling and everyone said nah don't worry bro the lab will automatically adjust it, pushing and pulling is mostly for b&w film, you don't need to do anything if it's overexposed just develop and scan normally, etc. Because potassium br provides about a third as much bromine as sodium, the potassium is 3 times the recipe calls for. But I substitute with potassium bromide as its easier to come by cheap and is an ingredient for other film uses. The kodak specs call for sodium bromide I think. You can c41 blix or use ferricyanide bleach and fix. I've had very presentable results with this process.ĮCN2 is a very fast process.
![lightroom 5.7.1 olymps tg-4 lightroom 5.7.1 olymps tg-4](https://live.staticflickr.com/4398/37155169255_5d06c30ae4_b.jpg)
If you use a hard water, you'll get some rocks at the bottom, filter them out. If it fizzes and produces a purplish slimy liquid, you did something right. Best to mix at the developing temp of 41-43 celsius(106-108 fahrenheit). This recipe is based off the official ecn2 recipe, but I tweaked it a bit for a smaller 1.25L batch (almost enough for a patterson 2 reel tank) as well as accomidate slight material loss during measuring and mixing.ġ.25L. I encourage all to use vision and develop *correctly* themselves.Ĭhemicals set me back ~$70 from artcraft, and even a fresh 400ft reel from kodagod winds up bringing the total cost per 36exp roll to 7-8 bucks.